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Guest Pritu

BSA Airsporter

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Guest Pritu

Hi,

I have recently bought an airsporter, there arent a lot of markings on it BSA, .22 and a serial number towards the left of the barrel GP04690. I guess it is a model S not quiet sure. it has an scope rail mounted on the cylinder.

I am thinking of re-blueing it and re-finishing the stock with a coat of matt PU clear. would like to increase the power output too..

could you please advise which model i own and the best possible mods that can be done to achive the best performance from this BSA.

How old is this airgun.

Does this model have a tappered piston if not can a gas ram be fitted.

Edited by Pritu

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Guest raygun

Hi Pritu,

Welcome to the Forum.

 

Are you sure that the prefix is GP because I can't find such a one. It may be that it's just me :abiggrin:

 

You won't be able to fit a Ram to the Airsporter as the piston has a central rod for latching the trigger.

 

This site may be of help to you.

http://www.chambersgunmakers.co.uk/bsa.htm

 

I don't know if there would be problems sending to India though.

 

ATB

Ray.

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Guest Pritu

Probably the marking must have got abraded off due to previous blueing attempts. is it possible to get to know the year in which this arm was manufactured.

I have seen the products that chambers offer, as they have two ultra premium tuning kit variants for the air sporter RB2 and the regular airsporter. i also got to know that there is a diffrence in the piston of these two models, one is tappered i guess. How good is this kit supplied by chambers, are the springs shot penned... what kind of power would it produce after instillation.

Also i have fitted a high see through scope mount on the airgun which i had got for my Mauser 98. which is suitable high or low mounted scope.

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I can find reference to a a GF model, and it's possible your P is actually a distorted F? If so, it's a mk 2 model in .22 made from June 67 to July 1968. Airsporters thru the mk 3 featured the cone nosed piston or taper nosed piston (same thing). These are basically sub 12 ft/lbs guns that even when very carefully and professionally tuned *might* see slightly above 12 ft/lbs, but it's not a good candidate for high power tuning. RB

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92 - 2000 hmmm, that narrows it down! :abiggrin:

 

Thanks Ray (and I'm missing her already :( )

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Guest Pritu

I have dismantlled my Airsporter, it has a flat crowned piston with one 'o' ring seal and a synthetic washer to absorb the impact. The spring was broken. I had a difficult time removing the piston as the scope rail had to be removed.

I also confirmed that the serial number on the side of te barell was a GP.

the breach pellet loader tap or rotary muzzle spring loaded ball was missing.

Since this does not have a tappered piston which model is it.

Also is the scope rail anodised as it is aluminium.

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Guest raygun

Hi Pritu,

I think the age/model was answered in post 4.

 

When you re-fit the maxi-rail make sure there are no burrs on any of the "slots" or "keys".

 

ATB

Ray.

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Hello Pritu, if your sporter has a maxi grip scope rail mounted on top of the cylinder that makes it a later model, probably a Mk6 or 7, these rifles respond really well to a tune up, one mod I do is to make a new piston head with a webley type seal in place of the o-ring! take care with the tap too, its fit is critical to the rifles accuracy!

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Seems my old Hiller book doesn't go to the GP serial number listings, so it's entirely possible it's a mk 6 or higher. Yes- the flat faced pistons will make more power, with the RB2 version being the best candidate for power tuning to the max. Come to think of it, I need a piston bumper ring/washer for my own Airsporter (the absorbtion ring behind the piston head). On older guns, these bumpers decay and crumble. Hmmm.. need one for my old Mercury as well! RB

Edited by bulsaye

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Guest Pritu

Thanks Guys for your prompt reply..

The rail might cause a problem while refitting, for that i have made a special jig.

Artfull-Bodger Could you please give me some more details of the piston mod's and the webley seals.

what say, how much power would it really produce.

also need to get rid of the lead from the rifling.

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Hi Pritu, the mod to the piston head is a replacement job, I have a lathe here at home and do my own modifications, the Airsporter piston head is removed and a new design of the same length was turned up on the lathe but with a different profile that takes a webley style seal (reffered to as a parachute seal) made out of softish nylon (dont recall the actual material now , softer than nylon 66 though?).

 

with a new spring, the piston head and spring guide mine produced 15 odd ft/lbs and I had to take a coil and a half off the spring to bring it down to UK legal (12ft/lbs) the redesigned piston head made a big difference to the firing cycle but is a lot of work if you have no engineering background!

 

as the rifle has a tap loading breech the best way you are going to clean the lead out is with a rifle brush followed by felt cleaning pellets!

 

 

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Guest Pritu

Thanks Artfull-Bodger for the info, 15 ft/lbs is desent. I am form an engineering back ground. i have a friends lathe on which i could have these mods done, i hope it does not reduce the stroke lenght. which webley seal would fit in the airsporter cylinder id, i would need to fist buy the seal and then as per the dimensions would need to machine the new piston head. but thats a great idea. would also need to check if the stroke length could be increased.

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the stroke length stays the same as you make the new head to the same dimensions (seal fitted) as the original, the seal I used was custom made copying a webley vulcan seal I had in the spares box but to the dimensions of the airsporter tube size (i seem to recall 27mm), I made the first one out of delrin but this was too hard and led to poor sealing and a harsh cycle, I contacted a local engineering plastics supplier and spoke to thier technical department who reccomended a soft nylon that exhibited reasonable wear and low friction .

 

for the life of me I cannot recall what the acual plastic was called, its one of the nylon machinable plastics, I'm sure theres a local supplier who could put you on the right path, just tell them nylon 66 is too hard and see what they reccomend, the actual rod was reasonably cheap so you can experiment!

 

regards

Mike.

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Guest Pritu

I could find PU i think thats polyurethine, is that what u used. but i feel its not soft enough, might crack.

I tried blueing my cylinder-barell-under lever, this was my first attempt at blueing and after controlling the temprature at the first shot got an good finish. really happy about that.

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