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GBertolet

Best chamber lubricant

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What type of chamber oil is the best for a springer? I am looking at it from a fuel stand point. Which is best for a leather seal and the best way to apply it? Which is best for a synthetic and the best way to apply it? I am in the process of switching from leather to synthetic. The parts I had for the conversion turned out to be the wrong type, so they must be ordered.

In an article, I read of using Neat's Foot Oil to soak a dried leather piston seal. I tried it, and soaked the leather piston seal before reassembly, and it seemed to work good as far as fueling the combustion in the firing sequence. The power held for almost 1000 shots before it fell off. Is this stuff really ok to use on a regular basis? Are there any drawbacks? I guess maybe a more "active" lube is sort of what I am looking for. Any info would be appreciated.

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I know there are advocates of leather and I think in some locations and for some reasons (keeping things original on a collection piece), but for the reason you set out below I am not a fan of leather piston heads. I think that when we have a modern replacement that is more efficient and effective and gives better, more consistent results; why stick with something that doesnt?

 

The old faithful of Abbey LT2 grease lightly applied to the rear of the piston skirt, and Abbey SM50 lightly applied to the synthetic piston head is a good start. If you trawl some of the gun shop web sites you will also see other- equally good- but these two spring to mind just now. As for lubes for leather heads- cant help you there I'm afraid as my colllection is a substantially leather piston head free zone.

 

I've done a few rifles from leather to synthetic and they were improved considerably with the exception of an early HW35 which I suspect has a taper to the port end of the tube and doesnt lend itelf to the use of ptfe. You can however buy a turned steel converter to screw onto the piston front to go from leather to the later and more efficient synthetic factory heads.

 

Out of interest, what rifle do you have these plans for? Its always interesting to post back here and let others know how you get on as well- it helps others with similar projects. Good luck whichever way you go with this.

 

Dave

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YOU SHOULD CONSULT A REPUTABLE GUNSMITH

any oil infront of the piston is a really bad idea.

can cause dieseling which WILL give bad consistancy. can also damage the gun due to the violent explosion which results. modern seals made from ptfe dont need any lube if sized properly due to its low friction as for leather their are products on the market like dryslide powder

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Unfortunately it is a HW35. I am trying to get an adapter from Beeman to convert from leather to synthetic. And also one of their synthetic seal heads. Beeman says the leather piston and synthetic one are the same. But other sources say not. I have tried an aftermarket synthetic seal on my leather piston and it would not hold compression, the edge folds back. So I temporarily switched back to leather. I have 2 pistons so switching back and forth is not that much of a problem. Plus I have a spare to experiment on. A call to the vendor revealed that I need the steel washer from the synthetic piston to work properly with his seal, not the fiber one I used from my leather piston, even though it fit. I have had some corrospondence with T-20 on tuning this gun. So the fun and games continue.

 

Back to the original topic, Neat's Foot Oil leather treatment seemed to work on raising the power. But I had to soak the disassembled leather piston head in it to get this result. I can't disassemble every time to refuel the seal, and I don't think a few drops of it through the transfer port is going to give much of a lasting effect. Most manuals suggest lubing leather seals through the transfer port with a few drops of oil. So when I convert to a synthetic, I have been told you must oil from behind the piston not through the transfer port as you would for leather, as leather and synthetic have different requirements. I am running at 8.8 ft lbs at this time.

Edited by GBertolet

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Neatsfoot oil shouldn't cause deiselling if the washer has been dried properly, the power is probably up because Neatsfoot oil swells the leather slightly. For a piston and cylinder lubricant, I would stick with Dri-slide or Moly GN paste, rubbed well in. I also like to lubricate leather washers with SM50 rather than Neatsfoot, but if you use SM50 you need to make sure that the SM50 is given plenty of time to soak into the leather, and there's little or none of it left on the surface (I dry the leather washer with paper towels before instalation). The instructions say SM50is fine for airguns but it contains silicone which while it is fine for the leather (much better than mireal oils in fact) it is really not good as a metal-to metal lubricant, so you need to make sure that there's none of it that can shed from the leather onto the contacting parts of the cylinder and piston. Small quantities of grease gradually slipping past the piston head from the spring area should be all the 'fuel' your airgun needs, you shouldn't need to refuel by oiling the washer.

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