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Eaton Rifles

Anschutz Tinkering....

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So I like Anschutz target rifles of all flavours, had a couple of small-bore ones and in PCP guise a few 2002's and more recently a 9003. I think I like the trigger and cycle the best, it's like putting on your favourite slippers and settling down infront of the telly to watch re-runs of Holly's best howling misses at GP's but anyways I digress....:)

 

So technical stuff.

You pull the trigger and it goes bang right?

But what if you can make it go bang more consistently and actually improve on what you get from the manufacturer.

Mine is a Jon Harris conversion from 6 to 12fpe and having taken it to bits in order to replace all the o-rings as shock horror they degrade over time, I can attest to Jon's superb engineering with all the extra little bits and bobs that he shoe-horns in there to make it work at double it's intended power level.

 

But, I'm a tinkerer, a designer by trade and I need to understand stuff, any stuff, how black holes work, but especially how I can improve PCP's to be more consistent in this tightly stretched envelope that we subject them to called Field Target shooting.

After titting about with barrels and specifically barrel and pellet treatments my latest fad is lubes, not the stuff that Holly keeps under his pillow but real lube for guns. I've always struggled with my rifles due to the fact that I like shooting Winter League and that means cold, wet and more cold usually. All of this causes the lubes in the rifles to change, usually for the worse with regard to performance.

So it has been my recent quest to try and find the holy grail and find a lube that is completely inert to temperature and I believe I have found it.

 

More later....:)

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Anyways, I won't drag this out too much as Holly will be needing his coco and beauty sleep...ah what was that DC not enough hours in the night for that...:)

So, I had this leaky 9003, it was so bad that from a 200BAR fill I was lucky to get 20 shots before it went off the reg. Not good.

So I replaced all the o rings and while I had everything in bits I cleaned all the components especially the hammer, hammer channel & stabiliser.

I had done this before a couple of times, but this black gunk kept on reappearing. So this time really gave it a deep clean.

Gave the hammer a good polish up as there were some small machining marks, so polished that as evenly as I could.

I was going to leave the hammer dry but then I had a thought about using a powder lube as it works very well in F1 engines so why not.

Ordered some very fine graphite powder and the next day I had it. So first off did all the locks in the house which was it's primary use, then I very carefully worked a layer of graphite into the hammer with my fingers and finished up with a small squirt into the bottom of the hammer channel where the hammer runs back and forth.

Inserted the hammer and worked it up and down the channel and even then I could feel a difference.

So put everything back together and then operated the action watching the hammer action and what was interesting is that the hammer seems to be self-lubing in that the travel forwards on firing puffs a small cloud of graphite along the length of the hammer getting it ready for the next shot.

 

So how is it I hear you ask?

Well, did mine a couple of weeks ago and it just got better and better over the following week. I've now got a super-smooth consistent action with less than 4fps chrono spread.

Temperature variation is much, much better. I get 6fps increase going from near zero to the 28 degrees we experienced Sunday at Iceni. I'll take that any day of the week over what was happening before.

 

Will it last?

Good question which I really don't know the answer to long term. Over the past few weeks the power has now stabilised as it originally went up by 25fps over 50 initial pellets, so I simply turned the hammer down a smidgen to compensate. Even if it only lasts six months it only takes me a few minutes to apply some more and with the small amount that is needed it's not a problem. I suspect that it will last longer than that, but what I will do if I either notice a difference or have to crack the action anyways is have a look and see how the powder is distributed in the hammer channel.

 

Any negatives?

The only possible negative I can find is that graphite, water and aluminium can cause an issue if they mix causing corrosion, but I have only read one piece about this in relation to external door locks so who knows if it's a problem as the chances of enough water finding it's way that far into the action is slim and either way you'd have to strip the rifle even if you didn't have graphite powder in there.

Either way for the performance stability I'm finding I am willing to give this a try long-term as the pluses far outweigh the negatives.

 

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Some have been using graphite powder in springers with good results. Super slippery and stays on the piston A very long time more than molly 

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22 minutes ago, springboy said:

Some have been using graphite powder in springers with good results. Super slippery and stays on the piston A very long time more than molly 

 

Good to hear Stan. I think as long as you use the very fine quality powder locksmiths use then it works brilliantly.

Tested my rifle this morning after not touching it since Sunday's foray to Iceni and first shot was 754fps which is totally normal, second and third shots were both 782fps, I can't really ask for more than that.

I missed eight Sunday trying some new pellets and apart from the long kneeler I wobbled out of most of the others were for giving slightly too much wind. I had two where the pellet swung right across the kill but all the others I was just out of kill or edge and the -insult- didn't move...:shakehead: 

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Rifle still going strong?  Notice weather has dipped so has this had any effect.

 

 

Matt

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5 hours ago, Matt said:

Rifle still going strong?  Notice weather has dipped so has this had any effect.

Matt

 

Sunday was freezing at ETL and the velocity was down to 754fps so I had to turn up to my usual 780, tiny adjustment on the hammer and was good to go.

So I've established that the graphite is very stable with heat considering the 28º at Iceni the week before.

The problem with cold is still there but not as acute as it was. I'm convinced that the lower velocity with low temperatures is all to do with the hammer spring as very small adjustment can make a huge difference to velocity so it stands to reason that temperature will affect this.

Unfortunately I can't see a solution except to completely replace the hammer spring with one made from a more temperature resistant material. I'm looking into different spring materials at the moment and there are plenty that are good with 300º but very few down to -20º.  

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On 02/05/2018 at 12:48 PM, Eaton Rifles said:

 

Sunday was freezing at ETL and the velocity was down to 754fps so I had to turn up to my usual 780, tiny adjustment on the hammer and was good to go.

So I've established that the graphite is very stable with heat considering the 28º at Iceni the week before.

The problem with cold is still there but not as acute as it was. I'm convinced that the lower velocity with low temperatures is all to do with the hammer spring as very small adjustment can make a huge difference to velocity so it stands to reason that temperature will affect this.

Unfortunately I can't see a solution except to completely replace the hammer spring with one made from a more temperature resistant material. I'm looking into different spring materials at the moment and there are plenty that are good with 300º but very few down to -20º.  

Have you seen this Colin...................

 

https://www.acxesspring.com/properties-of-common-spring-materials-spring-wires.html

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12 hours ago, hmangphilly said:

 

I've seen similar from other manufacturers but they all deal with maximum temperatures instead of minimum so it's impossible to gauge how a material will be for close to or below zero.

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49 minutes ago, Eaton Rifles said:

 

I've seen similar from other manufacturers but they all deal with maximum temperatures instead of minimum so it's impossible to gauge how a material will be for close to or below zero.

how about this bit.............

 

"General. Nickel-based alloys are especially useful spring materials to combat corrosion and to withstand both elevated and below-zero temperature application. Their nonmagnetic characteristic is important for such devices as gyroscopes,chronoscopes, and indicating instruments. These materials have high electrical resistance and should not be used for conductors of electrical current."

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On 06/05/2018 at 9:15 PM, hmangphilly said:

how about this bit.............

 

"General. Nickel-based alloys are especially useful spring materials to combat corrosion and to withstand both elevated and below-zero temperature application. Their nonmagnetic characteristic is important for such devices as gyroscopes,chronoscopes, and indicating instruments. These materials have high electrical resistance and should not be used for conductors of electrical current."

 

Ah, now that is interesting...😉

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Did you get to the bottom of this hammer spring issue Colin?

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Not yet John, just a hunch at the moment and the only way to prove one way or the other is to try springs of the same spec but different materials. Problem with that is getting hold of said springs at a reasonable cost.

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None off the shelf, been there done it 13 years ago.

 

Yours was good when Matt had it - stable.

 

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1 hour ago, Jon said:

None off the shelf, been there done it 13 years ago.

 

Yours was good when Matt had it - stable.

 

 

It's more stable now, certainly in the heat and I can cope with the 10-20fps drop in the cold with a quick hammer tweak.

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