Had a butchers at Ians twice, to do so will be opening a can of worms.
Theres preset positions in the hammer and cocking that have to be met, so modding or making new hammer 8mm longer at front with extra 8mm cocking clearance there wont be anything forward of closed cocking lever position up to the valve.
If do other way cocking position on hammer will be further forward and not fire off.
There is a way but wouldnt like to say how long it will last, longer protruding valve stem and relieve front of hammer at close position.
If it were mine I would be doing hammer, spring guide, spring, cocking lever.
FTP lightish hammer, long spring but still has to travel 14.2mm with a fair whack of preload upon firing.
By any chance was you motorsport orientated needing and learning quick reactions? Most people give you a weird look and cant tell the difference ie MPV and granny doing the shopping.
Assuming above done that's only part of the sorting, RN10, EV2 mark2,3,4 and FTP same valve close quick but open slow. Where abouts in that firing cycle pellet does the biz no one knows. No1 and 2 hand made one offs pellet moved upon closing of the valve with 2.8mm stroke easy to open small valve monstrous return spring setup by feel any pellet same power. Stronger spring more power not the other way round, can show the Danly die springs used with rated values.
My JB Titan or what was left of it just the cylinder and breach block ran at 1.4mm stroke, below that couldn't get the velocity, ask Tony Wall and Mr ISP it was instant probably better than electric Daystates 15 yrs later.
Personally couldn't say whether its rifle or you, only you can but have to determine perceived from actual.
Newer Anchutz are pretty quick as at 11 years ago, having gone on to one I had to develop techinique and follow through, something never done for previous 13 years.