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HW77 REFURB


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6 replies to this topic

#1 bigphil

 
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Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:18 PM

What would you all suggest for re-staining an old hw77 beech stock?
I've followed the strip down on here by davel,i think and I managed to re blue the metal work to a reasonable finish.
I now need to work on the stock.
I've sanded it down to a baby's bum finish and now need to know which route to go down : Stain and varnish or oil etc?
I also managed to break a piece off when unscrewing the end cap so is it worth ordering parts from online or shall i trust my local shop to order for me?
What power can be expected from these old guns( i estimate it at least 30 years old).
The current ox spring was still a git to compress but i dont know what lube to grease the working parts with?
Thanks for reading,

Phil. dunno.gif dunno.gif

#2 rikthornton

 
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Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:34 PM

Wire wool to finish, very fine grade - damp the stock to raise the grain then more rubbing. Then I'd use an oil, for preferance - I just prefer the satin finish from oils, plus it's easily refinished if scratched.

If I recall correctly, the OX mainsprings (when purchased in kit form) had a multitude of lubes for various areas - I am pretty certain a molybdenum lube was specified for the mainspring areas... Power-wise, if the spring was in good order there is no reason not to expect it to give a figure close to the original levels - I'd order any parts myself, but thats just me...

Hope this helps

Edited by rikthornton, 21 January 2012 - 11:37 PM.


#3 fenman

 
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Posted 22 January 2012 - 04:18 PM

Get rid of the ox spring

bar sells a F1 spring also get new piston seal

Birchwood casey sells stains tru oil ect

and these

http://www.avalon-gu...info_18377.html




#4 LongRangeSniper

 
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Posted 22 January 2012 - 10:10 PM

Hiya mate.
I used oil on my Hw100 walnut stock and got a good result so thought I would use the same mixture(Linsead oil mixed with Alkanet root) on my s410 Beech stock.It ended up with me stripping it all down and starting again.
I ended up staining the stock with Indian Rosewood stain then used Birchwood Casey True Oil.Have a look at my thread (Air Arms s410) in this section.I have added photographs.

#5 bigphil

 
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Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:44 AM

Cheers mate I'll take a look!
Maybe some long nights in are needed soon!
Phil.

#6 bigphil

 
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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:02 AM

As i dont own a chrono i plan to take it in to my local shop and have them test it. They've told me that when tested,if it is over 12lbs they will have to detune it before giving it back and charge me for the privelige of doing so. The lad that works there though said he could have a fire of it and know roughly what it is putting out. Does this make sense?
Also after much web trawling im not sure as to what spring assembly to use,if any after he tests it,to replace the old ox spring?
ox,oxa,titan or venom kit?
Any suggestions anyone?

Cheers
Phil.

#7 fenman

 
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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:22 PM

QUOTE(bigphil @ Tue Jan 24 2012, 11:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As i dont own a chrono i plan to take it in to my local shop and have them test it. They've told me that when tested,if it is over 12lbs they will have to detune it before giving it back and charge me for the privelige of doing so. The lad that works there though said he could have a fire of it and know roughly what it is putting out. Does this make sense?
Also after much web trawling im not sure as to what spring assembly to use,if any after he tests it,to replace the old ox spring?
ox,oxa,titan or venom kit?
Any suggestions anyone?

Cheers
Phil.


For my money I have put in V-mach kits in 77 & 97s, put the first one in 2006 its still giving out a steady FPS.

Now have 77 & two 97 one TX200 all with V-mach kits

You pays your money then its up to you




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